Yesterday I took advantage of a special FAM trip to Nantucket sponsored by the Steamship Authority, which offers fast ferry service to the island. The day dawned bright and sunny, but unseasonably cool for spring on Cape Cod and with the threat of afternoon showers. Undaunted, I grabbed my windbreaker and headed down Route 6A, the Old King’s Highway, to pick up my friends Helen and Mary for our date with the 11:00AM ferry.

Nantucket, many say, is a state of mind, and having lived there briefly between college graduation and my first teaching position many years ago, I must concur. There is something about the light, the rustle of leaves against the cobblestones, and the wind that whips the sails in the boat basin that envelopes your soul in a dreamlike reverie. It haunts you when you leave and embraces you when you return, as you undoubtedly will after your first visit.

It was smooth sailing across the Atlantic to Nantucket Town, where we were greeted by Chester Barrett, a native islander with a gift for gab. Chester is a septuagenarian character with a New England twang and a fondness for his ancestral home that is infectious. He took us around the island in his comfortable 30-passenger tour bus and regaled us with humorous anecdotes about windmills, cranberry bogs, and whaling captains in a delightful 90-minute circumnavigation of the “Gray Lady”, Nantucket’s nickname.

After our tour, we walked the cobbled streets of downtown Nantucket, admiring the storefronts and serene nature of this fabled island situated just 30 miles offshore. A few hardy local proprietors were readying their shops in anticipation of the hustle bustle that the upcoming Nantucket Daffodil Festival will bring this weekend.

From early-April to mid-May, over three million daffodils of every color, shape and size will bloom on Nantucket. This blossoming, and the advent of spring itself, is the focal point of the Annual Daffodil Festival, a full-scale celebration of winter’s thaw, joyous for both islanders and visitors alike. Daffodils adorn the island’s roadsides, gardens and shop windows with blossoms of yellow, orange, white and even pale pink. The Daffodil Festival’s grand event is the Annual Antique Car Parade, featuring over 100 daffodil-bedecked antique cars. After winding through town and across the island to the charming village of Siasconset, participants join residents and visitors for the Annual Daffodil Tailgate Picnic. Other highlights include the Nantucket Garden Club’s Annual Daffodil Show, Daffy Dog Parade, Children’s Daffodil Parade and The Daffy Hat Pageant. It is an event everyone should witness at least once in their lifetime.

Sadly, our day came to an end much as it began, with a trip aboard the MV Iyanough. But, I am hopeful as the ferry rounds Brant Point on the return to “America”, as Chester referred to the land across the sound. Hopeful that the daffodils waving their lovely heads signal the advent of spring; that the contentment I feel from a day well spent will endure; and that Nantucket will be waiting for me whenever I am able to return.
Nantucket hosts a number of other festivals annually that make a daytrip worth considering. For more information and the schedule for 2009 click here.

April 24-26 Nantucket Daffodil Festival
May 13-17 Nantucket Wine Festival
May 23-24 Annual Figawi Race Weekend
June 1-7 Nantucket Restaurant Week
June 18-22 Nantucket Film Festival
August 15 Sandcastle and Sculpture Day

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Nantucket: Daffodils and Daytrips

One of 1000 Great Places on Cape Cod

As the state prepares to assemble a list of 1,000 Great Places in Massachusetts, the Cape Cod Times decided to give them a little help. In an online survey, the Times gave readers a chance to choose, from 103 notable spots in and around Cape Cod and the Islands spot, those that truly deserved to be called “great places.”Over the course of a week, 281 people responded to the survey. And the greatest are:

Top 25

Clay cliffs/Gay Head, Aquinnah, 153 votes
Truro Highlands/Links/Light, Truro, 149
Nauset Beach, Orleans, 146
Coast Guard Beach, Eastham, 144
Menemsha fishing village, Chilmark, 130
Cape Cod Canal, 130
Race Point, Provincetown, 123
Commercial Street, Provincetown, 116
Monomoy Island, Chatham, 111
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Falmouth, 111
Sandy Neck, Barnstable and Sandwich, 111
Tidal flats/Mayflower and Chapin beaches, Dennis, 108
Edgartown Light, Edgartown, 108
Marconi Beach/Station, Wellfleet, 107
Heritage Museum and Gardens, Sandwich, 106
Main Street, Nantucket, 106
The dunes, Provincetown, 104
Pilgrim Monument, Provincetown, 103
The Rail Trail, 103
Nickerson State Park, Brewster, 102
The gingerbread houses, Oak Bluffs, 101
South Cape Beach, Mashpee, 97
The Black Dog Tavern, Tisbury, 95
Boardwalk area, Sandwich, 94
Sea captains’ homes along Route 6A, 92
Town winners
Regional: Cape Cod Canal, 130 votes
Barnstable: Craigville Beach, Centerville, 75
Bourne: Taylor’s Point/Massachusetts Maritime Academy, 80
Brewster: Nickerson State Park, 102
Chatham: Monomoy Island, 111
Dennis: Tidal flats/Mayflower and Chapin beaches, 108
Eastham: Coast Guard Beach, 144
Falmouth: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 111
Harwich: Victorian homes along Bank Street, 87
Mashpee: South Cape Beach, 97
Orleans: Nauset Beach, 146
Provincetown: Race Point, 123
Sandwich: Heritage Museum and Gardens, 106
Truro: Truro Highlands/Links/Light, 149
Wellfleet: Marconi Beach/Station, 107
Yarmouth: Gray’s Beach, 72
Nantucket: Main Street, 106
Aquinnah: Clay cliffs/Gay Head, 153
Chilmark: Menemsha fishing village, 130
Edgartown: Edgartown Light, 108
Oak Bluffs: The gingerbread houses, 101
Tisbury: The Black Dog Tavern, 95
West Tisbury: Lambert’s Cove, 83

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More “1000 Great Places” on Cape Cod

Sandwich Boardwalk

On January 16, 2009 the governor of the state of Massachusetts enacted a new law that will establish a commission to designate “1,000 Great Places in Massachusetts”– destinations worth visiting within the Commonwealth. The promotion will encourage travel to the state as well as give a boost to civic pride. But how do you choose which places quality for a spot on the list? There are so many that come to mind. Cape Cod alone offers a myriad of things to do that could keep you busy for weeks on end in every season. In fact, the latest issue of the Cape Cod Travel Guide lists 52 Fun Things To Do on Cape Cod

To assist our own visitors Rich and I have developed a list of our personal favorite things to do in and around Cape Cod and compiled them into a two-week itinerary.

Day One: The Olde King’s Highway

Drive the length of scenic Route 6A, the Old King’s Highway, designated one of the most scenic byways in America. Browse antique shops, art galleries, boutiques, and one-of-a-kind gift shops along the way. Have lunch at the Brewster Fish House. Visit the Natural History Museum and walk the nature trails across the marsh to the Brewster Flats at Paines Creek. Catch the sunset along the boardwalk at Gray’s Beach in Yarmouthport. Stop for a soft serve at Captain Frosty’s.

Day Two: The National Seashore

Head east to the National Seashore. Take a side trip to Fort Hill for a view of Nauset Beach and the Penniman House and a walk along the nature trails. Continue on to the Salt Pond Visitors Center at the start of the National Seashore in Eastham. See the Coast Guard Station at Coast Guard Beach, the Nauset Beach Lighthouse, and the Marconi Wireless Station site. Drive down Lecount Hollow Road to Ocean View Drive, past Cahoon Hollow to Newcomb Hollow. Stop at Arnold’s on Route 6 for onion rings and fried clams. Catch a movie at the Wellfleet Drive-In.

Day Three: Provincetown

Hop on Route 6, the mid-Cape Highway, and make a bee-line for Provincetown. Along the way you can detour for a tour of Truro Vineyards and the Atlantic Spice Company. Climb the Pilgrim Monument for a spectacular view. Take a one-of-a-kind tour of the dunes with Art’s Dune Tours. Alternatively take a whale watching excursion to Stellwagen Bank. Have lunch at the Lobster Pot, then stroll the shops and galleries along Commercial Street. Drive to the Province Lands Visitors Center and watch the sunset over Race Point.

Day Four: Cape Cod Rail Trail

Grab your bike and ride the 26-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail. Pack a lunch for a picnic along the trail. Take a detour into Nickerson State Park and have a swim in the one of the lovely ponds. Return via 6A through Dennis on 6A and stop at the Sesuit Harbor Café for a lobster roll or perhaps a sunset cruise in the harbor.

Day Five: Sandwich

Spend the day in Sandwich, the oldest town on Cape Cod. Tour the Sandwich Glass Museum and visit the Dexter Grist Mill. Have tea at the Dunbar Tea House. Walk the boardwalk out to Cape Cod Bay or stroll along the 6-mile trail that lines the Cape Cod Canal. Grab a bite to eat at Seafood Sam’s or order a steamed lobster from Joe’s Seafood Market and dine at a picnic table along the canal. Then spend the afternoon at the Heritage Museum and Gardens. Stroll acres of perennial gardens, visit the historic Shaker round barn with its spectacular classic car collection, and the exhibits of military miniatures, antique toys and Native American artifacts in the American History Museum. Take a ride on the working carousel and stay for an evening concert at the amphitheater.

Day Six: Boston

Take a day trip to Boston (one hour by car) to walk the Freedom Trail, or take a Duck Mobile or Beantown Trolley tour of the city. Visit the New England Aquarium, Old Ironsides, Bunker Hill Monument, Quincy Market, and Faneuil Hall. Dine on fresh seafood at Legal Seafood or the Union Oyster House.

Day Seven: Chatham

Travel to Chatham, the “elbow” of Cape Cod to see the Chatham Lighthouse. Browse the shops along Main Street. Drive out to the Chatham Fish Pier to see the day boats unload their catch. Take Shore Road past Chatham Bars Inn to Morris Island and the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge. Take a seal cruise aboard the Rip Ryder or have them drop you off for an afternoon at the beach on South Monomoy. Dine at The Impudent Oyster.

Day Eight: Newport

Venture to Newport, R.I. (90 minutes by car) and tour the mansions that were the summer homes of the Vanderbilts and Astors. Take a leisurely drive along the 10-mile Ocean Drive, walk the Cliff Walk in front of The Breakers, Marble House and Chateau Sur Mer. End your day with a bowl of steaming clam chowder at the Black Pearl on the water.

Day Nine: Cape Cod at Play

Spend the day at any one of Cape Cod’s beautiful beaches soaking up the sun, reading the latest novel, walking the coastline in search of treasures from the sea, or frolicking in the waves. Alternately, take a kayak trip in Pleasant Bay or Nauset Marsh with Osprey Sea Kayak Adventures or golf at any of our championship golf courses. After dinner, catch a play at the Cape Cod Playhouse, America’s oldest professional summer theatre (in season).

Day Ten: Nantucket

Take the high speed ferry (one hour) to Nantucket for the day. Visit the Whaling Museum. Rent a moped or bicycle and ride the Polpis Road out to ‘Sconset to see the rose-covered fishing cottages. Walk the cobblestone streets of Nantucket Town, climb to the top of the First Congregational Church bell tower on Center St. for a beautiful view of the harbor. Have lunch at the Brotherhood of Thieves or Le Languedoc. Be sure to throw a penny off the stern of the ferry as you pass Brant Point Lighthouse to ensure your return trip to the island one day.

Day Eleven: Falmouth and Woods Hole

Drive to Falmouth and Woods Hole via Route 28A, which will take you through the lovely community of West Falmouth with its many antique shops. Stop for lunch at Dana’s Kitchen for unusual sandwiches, homemade soups and salads. Turn right on Palmer Ave in downtown Falmouth for shopping. Follow Sippewissett Road, a windy 8-mile route that takes you past beautiful homes with great views of the water into Woods Hole, home to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Alternately you can ride your bike along the Shining Sea Bike Trail. On the return trip have dinner at the Chapoquoit Grill, then catch the sunset from Chapoquoit Beach near the restaurant.

Day Twelve: Plimoth Plantation

Spend the day at Plimoth Plantation in nearby Plymouth, MA (45 minutes by car). Plimoth was the first permanent European settlement in the “New World”. Today it is a living history museum dedicated to recreating the 17th century lifestyle. Tour the Mayflower II, a recreation of the original, and learn about the perils of the 1620 journey. Stop to see Plymouth Rock, located on the waterfront in downtown Plymouth, close to where Mayflower II is anchored.

Day Thirteen: Martha’s Vineyard

Take the Island Queen ferry (35 minutes) from Falmouth Harbor to Oak Bluffs on the island of Martha’s Vineyard for the day. Rent a bike or moped and ride into Edgartown via the designated bike path. Take the 5-minute ferry trip to Chappaquiddick and take the lighthouse tour or visit Mytoi Japanese Garden. Return to Edgartown for lunch at Alchemy. Then ride down to Katama Beach for fine surfing. Alternatively, drive out to see the fishing village of Menemsha, Aquinnah, and the cliffs at Gay Head. Return to Oak Bluffs and ride the Flying Horses carousel before returning to the mainland via ferry.

Day Fourteen: Rail and Sail

Ride the rails on the Cape Cod Scenic Train, a 2-hour journey through beautiful cranberry bogs, natural woodlands, lush marshes and more as you make your way between Hyannis and the Cape Cod Canal. Stop for lunch at Baxter’s Boat House on the harbor then set sail for a leisurely one-hour harbor cruise aboard the Maine coastal steamer replica, Prudence, which will take you on a journey of Lewis Bay and Hyannis Harbor. You can visit the shops along the harbor, then head down Main Street to the JFK Museum. End you day with a concert at the Cape Cod Melody Tent (in season) or stop for a nightcap and some jazz at Harry’s Blues Bar.

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1,000 Great Places in Massachusetts

Three Sisters Lighthouses

This morning, thanks to an article in the Cape Cod Times, I learned the significance, and recent history of, the Three Sisters Lighthouses in Eastham. The lighthouses earned the Nauset station the reputation as the only one in the country with three towers. The towers seemed doomed to extinction after the turn of the century, when erosion threatened to tumble them into the sea. The central tower was relocated in 1911, and the other two were sold and moved, becoming additions to summer cottages. The third tower eventually followed that same fate. Over the years the National Park Service acquired them and moved them all back to their current site, a quarter of a mile from their original home. Many of our guests are curious lighthouse seekers, so we provide them with a map to the remaining lighthouses on Cape Cod, and advise them which ones are open to the public for touring. Our favorite is Highland Light in Truro where we met a fascinating docent, well-versed in the minutiae of lighthouse lore. See our full post about Cape Cod Lighthouses. And check out our new Cape Cod Lighthouse map.

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Cape Cod’s Three Sisters Lighthouses